Square Rigger

Square Rigger
The Stavvy

The First Adventure of 2010

The Galloping Grandma is off again! This time I am flying out to Tenerife where I join the Volunteer Crew of the Stavros S Niarchos as Assistant Cook. We then sail from Tenerife to Madeira, no doubt calling in several places en-route. We anticipate getting to Madeira on 28th January and I am then being joined by my friend Margaret to spend the next 6 days walking on, the extremely hilly, or should I say mountainous, Madeira Island.

Balearics

Balearics
At anchor in Soller and looking so small !!

Climbing aloft - on the platform

Climbing aloft - on the platform
This is where I like to be, up the rigging or out along the yards

The Bay of Naples with Vesuvius in the background

The Bay of Naples with Vesuvius in the background
Memories of Capri, Mum & Jackie

Saturday, 6 February 2010




I am back home safe and sound now after a flight delayed by 90 minutes then no food on board for a 4 hour flight! Still, it was EasyJet so you gets what you pay for I suppose.

Sorry the video clips I sent do not appear to work, they showed quite spectacular waves and waterfalls!

Here are a few more photos.... and the end of this particular blog. Thanks to all those who took the trouble to have a look.

Anita
Assistant Cook, Stavros S Niarchos.

Friday, 5 February 2010

Airport delays

Our flight, due out at 11.40 is now showing as 12.30 The sun outside looks gorgeous and I wish I was on a levada walk rather than sat waiting for am Easijet flight.

Thursday, 4 February 2010

Last evening

The tour of Blandy's wine lodge and museum was very interesting and educational. Now I understand the difference between sherry and Madeira . At the end of the tour they gave us 2 small glasses of Madeira, one 3 years old and the other 5. They said we could taste the other wines but would have to pay for them. The most expensive was 95 euro per taste! I have to say that the glasses they gave us were larger than I would have expected for a wine tasting and they were very good. It was drizzling again when we came out and has continued the same since. The forecast from tomorrow is hot and sunny for days! Just our luck to be going home just as the weather improves. Never mind. It has given me a feel for Madeira and I will come back for more extensive walking one day. Home to my loved ones tomorrow. Missed them all especially Amber my princess and Axel my kissing monkey. :-)

More rain.

We went out for a walk along the coastal road this morning. After confirming the times for the wine tasting at Blandys wine museum and a walk through one of the parks where children were pushing wheeled sticks round a road circuit learning road sense. we climbed up St Jose's tower overlooking the harbour - supposed to be the smallest principality in the world. We then continued on passed Reid's Hotel, the grandest and most famous on the island. It then started to rain quite steadily so we bought some filled rolls and have just eaten lunch in our room. Going to Blandy's to get tipsy at 3.30

Thursday 4th

Not sure what the plans are for today. I would have liked to in on a longer walk on the northern coast but Margaret said she does not want to sit on the bus for a couple of hours it would take to get there. Probably end up not walking and just going for a wine tasting walk round Blandy's wine lodge. End up tiddly and sleep it off all afternoon.

Wednesday, 3 February 2010

Wed pm

Have not been able to do anywhere near as much walking as I had hoped. Many of the longer walks are not accessible by bus and taxis are too expensive. I love the island and would like to return, maybe with a walking group so we can arrange transport to and from the start of more remote walks. The euro/sterling exchange rate also makes the island a bit expensive though there are some bargains to be had. Maybe I will do what our friend Jan today is doing - come for a month in an apartment where you dont have to eat out every day and so I can save money that way.

Photos from Wed

Just a few more photos from a wonderful walk.

Wed 3 Feb

Today Could not have been more of a contrast to yesterday. The sky was clear and blue and the sun was shining when we got up. After breakfast we decided to go for a walk up in the mountains. We caught the bus for a 45 minute trip up through Funchal, round hairpin bends and through a couple of lush wooded valleys. Unsure how the bus driver kept the vehicle on the road at such speeds, we just hung on and enjoyed the view! Our walk started with a detour to a viewpoint looking down into Nuns Valley where we Could see the destination of our walk about a mile below in the valley. A charming English lady asked us about our walk and, after a short conversation, we invited her to join us, which she did. It turned out she was staying on the island for a month and was in her 70s though she did not look it, and she kept up a good pace on the walk. What the walk lacked in length it made up for in spectacle and sheer breathtaking beauty. It was only about 1.5 miles but down a very steep winding path of steps made of edge-on stones, each step having a rounded edge which we named mougle steps after the mougle fields on ski slopes. At times the path became the river bed and at other times we Could have had a natural shower under crystal springs cascading from the sheer rocks above our heads. Yesterday's rain (5 3/4 inches in one day!) created waterfalls and springs every inch of the way down the path. The views were fantastic and the walk exhilarating. After a coffee and half a slice of chestnut cake we got the bus back to Funchal. As the sun was still hot we took our books up onto the sun terrace for an hour of sun worship. Just been out for supper and now ready for bed!

Tuesday, 2 February 2010

New hotel

Moved out of The Monte Carlo and into The Windsor which is much better and not half a mile uphill from the town centre. The rivers are very swollen and almost the colour of fudge with soil washing down from the hills. When it meets the sea, with huge storm waves, it creates huge columns of water 30 ft or more which come crashing down onto the esplinade and unsuspecting, or just plain stupid, tourists.

Cats and dogs

We got up this morning to find pools of water under all our windows, the dining room flooded with water dripping through the ceiling and light fittings - we even had to move tables around so we were not under dripping water. The lounge is under water and they are moving the furniture out to keep it safe. We tried to get an early flight out but no seats available. The hotel has dried our floor but we still have to keep the shutters closed to stop rain coming in. Agents through whom I booked asked if we would accept upgrade in same hotel but we said no. We want a hotel where we can sit in the lounge and have breakfast in the dry, not to mention being able to use hairdryer without being electrocuted. Now in hotel Windsor which is much more comfortable, nearer centre of town AND DRY.

Tuesday 2nd Feb

Another stormy night with the wind howling round the pool terrace outside our room. Fortunately we hot back from our meal before it started. It is still raining hard so we will not be going out on the open topped sightseeing bus as we had planned. Another day in the hotel lounge with a book. :-(

Monday, 1 February 2010

Monday levada walk

It was a beautiful morning as we set out to do a 3hr walk from the Jasmine Tea Rooms to Camacha. We missed the stop so started from the Hortensa gardens instead. It was a lovely walk along the levada dos Tornos past waterfalls and gardens. The scent of the pine and eucalyptus was gorgeous not to mention the dozens of flowers including orchids. We had secretively made ham and cheese rolls at breakfast and taken them with us 4 lunch and we finished off a melon bought on the market on Saturday. There were 2 flies in the ointment however. One was a teenager who insisted the way was blocked or difficult to find and took us on a 'short cut' then tried to get money out of us - without success. The other was having to wait for 2 hours for the bus back to Funchal. We spent the time in the basket weave factory and the coffee shop. Now just about to have a shower and go back down the hill for supper.

Monday 1st Feb

The contrast to yesterday Could not be greater! Today the sun is warm and the clouds light and fluffy. We are just about to set off on a 7km levada walk taking in the art and craft centre and the wicker factory where they sell hand crafted baskets. More later. :-)

Sunday, 31 January 2010

Sunday 31st Jan 2010

We were woken in the night by one of our window shutters banging in the storm! The rain was lashing down and, with no guttering on the rooves, it was cascading down and sounded like we were under a waterfall. We have had a late breakfast and are now ensconced in the lounge as the weather is hardly any better. It is raining so hard you cannot tell where sea ends and land begins. No walking for us today and, being Sunday, there's not much going on outside. No wine tasting or sightseeing trips. I pity the new voyage crew on Stavros having to complete their training in this foul weather.

Saturday, 30 January 2010

Sat 30th cont'd

Also caught sight of tourists braving the local tobogan run down the ordinary but steep road.

Saturday 30th

Today started off overcast but not cold. After a decent continental breakfast in the hotel we set off for the cable car. The walk down through Funchal took us past the indoor market and we Couldnt resist a look inside. It was fascinating with every type of fruit, veg, flower, herb and fish known to man! We took the cable car up to the Monte Tropical Gardens where we spent a very enjoyable 3 hours wandering round the steep paths which wound around between ponds, woodlands, Japanese sections with coi carp and white swans, waterfalls abounding! We then visited the impressive church of our Lady of Monte before setting off on a fairly steep levada walk to an impressive waterfall. The rain, which had been threatening all the time we were in the gardens settled into a steady moderate downpour while we were in the church so we put on our wet weather gear. It was a good, slightly strenuous walk and the rain stayed up the hillside as we decended in the cable car. Most of the shops had closed by the time we got back into Funchal but as it was such a pleasant early evening we walked through town to one of the gardens overlooking the marina before going for supper at a restaurant which was once a large yacht owned by The Beatles. The meal was adequate but not worth the 42 euro it cost (without wine or dessert).

Sat 30th

Day started off very over cast and grey but the clouds are now moving away and the sun beams are dancing on the sea. We intend going up the cable car to explore the botanical gardens today. Photos show our room and the view from our side window. Our other window overlooks the pool terrace.

Friday, 29 January 2010

Pond pool

Margaret and I have been out for some lunch and a walkabout. Now we are going to sit by the pool and relax in the sun.

Jumping ship.

I have now signed off and left the ship. I walked into town with A few of the guys and Gorgeous George (always smiling and with a laugh and a joke always ready!) bought us coffee and pastries - thanks George, much appreciated. Got a taxi up to the hotel and am now waiting for Margaret. Our room turns out to be a spacious 2 room suite with real wood block floors and windows on 2 sides. They are not double glazed and a bit draughty but give a good view down over the town and up into the hills. I have selected 3 walks from my walking book and I think we might do a couple of guided walks as well. Now to try to reprogram my GPS for Madeira - I wish I had brought the instruction book or a certain G Marek! :-)

Last morning on board.

Bags packed and ready to go. Sunny but breezy. Have the morning to myself before Margaret arrives at mid day.

Thursday, 28 January 2010

Last night on board.

We had our washup with the captain and voyage crew. Only 4 of us for dinner tonight as everyone else has gone ashore to eat. I have done 17 voyages now and only once has a watch asked me to join them for their last get together. They ask the permanent crew and watch leaders to join their group photos, but rarely the cooks. 2 guys once bought the Assistant cook and me (I was 2nd cook on that voyage) a bottle of wine to have with our meal. And that was such a lovely surprise. The people are always very nice and it is lovely when they say, as they have on this trip, 'you are always so cheerful' or 'you are always polite and smiling' but it would be nice if, once in a while I got to go out for a meal with them instead of just serving them then being left to go out to eat on my own or stay on board. I dont want presents but at times I feel like Cinderella! Mind you, the people on this trip have been the best I have sailed with for a long time and we had such a laugh. I will be sorry to part from them tomorrow.

Afternoon in Madeira

I went out for a walk in the sunshine this afternoon to find out where our hotel is. I discovered that there are no flat bits on Madeira - it is all hills and steep! It is a good 10 minute walk downhill from the hotel to the main part of town, so going up with my bags tomorrow does not appeal ! The town of Funchal is pretty with parks, shops and all the usual including Pizza Hut, MacDonalds etc. Some nice bars and restaurants down by marina but cheaper in town. Lots to see and do but I cant say I found the locals cheerful or friendly. One or two drunks about even at 3pm. Banks close at 2pm daily. Only 4 of us on board for dinner tonight. Probably leave ship after breakfast.